y too cheap.

2. Know your stuff.

Wooden Chairs:
Most timber frames are Beech, Birch, Ash or Oak.
Construction:
Best = No nails or screws, glued joints (mortice & tenon, among others).
Acceptable = Mortice & Tenon joints with screws.
Lower quality = Dowel fixing.

Steel frame chairs:
Best = 14 Gauge Steel. Extremely strong, though heavy.
Above average = HTS, High Tensile Steel. Very strong & lig

1. Establish a brief and stick to it.

What do you want your chairs to do?

Comfort: Not many suppliers will sell you a chair that is ‘uncomfortable’, so ask your supplier what makes their chairs comfortable. Ideally, ergonomically shaped seats and backs provide the best comfort over a long sitting. Beware of thick upholstery; it may appear attractive but is often of a very cheap grade that is prone to premature degradation. Thin, dense foams offer greater comfort over time, and will last far longer.

Storage: If you have limited storage space, perhaps you require folding or stacking chairs. Should you have room for stacking chairs, these are usually more comfortable and durable. Of all the folding chairs available, there are only about five models that are really any good; look out for brand names like Virco and Samsonite. For large installations, storage should be a key consideration. Your chairs should last a minimum of 20 years; if you need to store them at any time, you’ll be far happier if they stack- the higher the better.

Durability: Be careful; a five year guarantee may suggest that your chairs will last, however, 5 years is not very long at all. Not many suppliers will offer you a longer guarantee - but if you consider a 5 year guarantee as a “get out clause”, the supplier can wash his hands of you once that period of time has passed. A genuine product will last a minimum of 20 years under normal usage, and a genuine supplier will be amazed if the product fails, he will remedy the situation properly.

Budget: Most organisations can get a chair that meets most of their brief, within budget. You may need to compromise. Usually, the hardest compromise is timber frames. However, it is important that your chairs last, so don’t buy too cheap.

2. Know your stuff.

Wooden Chairs:
Most timber frames are Beech, Birch, Ash or Oak.
Construction:
Best = No nails or screws, glued joints (mortice & tenon, among others).
Acceptable = Mortice & Tenon joints with screws.
Lower quality = Dowel fixing.

Steel frame chairs:
Best = 14 Gauge Steel. Extremely strong, though heavy.
Above average = HTS, High Tensile Steel. Very strong & ligh

dense foams offer greater comfort over time, and will last far longer.

Storage: If you have limited storage space, perhaps you require folding or stacking chairs. Should you have room for stacking chairs, these are usually more comfortable and durable. Of all the folding chairs available, there are only about five models that are really any good; look out for brand names like Virco and Samsonite. For large installations, storage should be a key consideration. Your chairs should last a minimum of 20 years; if you need to store them at any time, you’ll be far happier if they stack- the higher the better.

Durability: Be careful; a five year guarantee may suggest that your chairs will last, however, 5 years is not very long at all. Not many suppliers will offer you a longer guarantee - but if you consider a 5 year guarantee as a “get out clause”, the supplier can wash his hands of you once that period of time has passed. A genuine product will last a minimum of 20 years under normal usage, and a genuine supplier will be amazed if the product fails, he will remedy the situation properly.

Budget: Most organisations can get a chair that meets most of their brief, within budget. You may need to compromise. Usually, the hardest compromise is timber frames. However, it is important that your chairs last, so don’t buy too cheap.

2. Know your stuff.

Wooden Chairs:
Most timber frames are Beech, Birch, Ash or Oak.
Construction:
Best = No nails or screws, glued joints (mortice & tenon, among others).
Acceptable = Mortice & Tenon joints with screws.
Lower quality = Dowel fixing.

Steel frame chairs:
Best = 14 Gauge Steel. Extremely strong, though heavy.
Above average = HTS, High Tensile Steel. Very strong & lig

a key consideration. Your chairs should last a minimum of 20 years; if you need to store them at any time, you’ll be far happier if they stack- the higher the better.

Durability: Be careful; a five year guarantee may suggest that your chairs will last, however, 5 years is not very long at all. Not many suppliers will offer you a longer guarantee - but if you consider a 5 year guarantee as a “get out clause”, the supplier can wash his hands of you once that period of time has passed. A genuine product will last a minimum of 20 years under normal usage, and a genuine supplier will be amazed if the product fails, he will remedy the situation properly.

Budget: Most organisations can get a chair that meets most of their brief, within budget. You may need to compromise. Usually, the hardest compromise is timber frames. However, it is important that your chairs last, so don’t buy too cheap.

2. Know your stuff.

Wooden Chairs:
Most timber frames are Beech, Birch, Ash or Oak.
Construction:
Best = No nails or screws, glued joints (mortice & tenon, among others).
Acceptable = Mortice & Tenon joints with screws.
Lower quality = Dowel fixing.

Steel frame chairs:
Best = 14 Gauge Steel. Extremely strong, though heavy.
Above average = HTS, High Tensile Steel. Very strong & lig

of you once that period of time has passed. A genuine product will last a minimum of 20 years under normal usage, and a genuine supplier will be amazed if the product fails, he will remedy the situation properly.

Budget: Most organisations can get a chair that meets most of their brief, within budget. You may need to compromise. Usually, the hardest compromise is timber frames. However, it is important that your chairs last, so don’t buy too cheap.

2. Know your stuff.

Wooden Chairs:
Most timber frames are Beech, Birch, Ash or Oak.
Construction:
Best = No nails or screws, glued joints (mortice & tenon, among others).
Acceptable = Mortice & Tenon joints with screws.
Lower quality = Dowel fixing.

Steel frame chairs:
Best = 14 Gauge Steel. Extremely strong, though heavy.
Above average = HTS, High Tensile Steel. Very strong & lig

y too cheap.

2. Know your stuff.

Wooden Chairs:
Most timber frames are Beech, Birch, Ash or Oak.
Construction:
Best = No nails or screws, glued joints (mortice & tenon, among others).
Acceptable = Mortice & Tenon joints with screws.
Lower quality = Dowel fixing.

Steel frame chairs:
Best = 14 Gauge Steel. Extremely strong, though heavy.
Above average = HTS, High Tensile Steel. Very strong & lightweight.
Acceptable = 16 Gauge Steel.
Lower quality = 18 Gauge Steel. Weak, lightweight.

Upholstery:
Whichever fabric you chose, your local fire officer should be able to advise the grade required. Usually, Low Hazard Cigarette & Match is acceptable. Most organisations do not need to spend extra money on increased flame protection or Stainguard. Stainguard is not a cure for all; if your chairs are likely to suffer spillage's of coffee etc., then the best solution is a man-made fabric. Fabrics are subjected to many recognised tests; yours should be rated at “FIRA Severe Contract Use”.

3. Don’t think with your bum.

It is very easy to choose a chair simply on comfort. Remember your brief; does the chair do what you really want it to do? If your chairs are out of use within 20 years, then you have probably failed.

When you do carry out comfort tests, consider how long the product will be sat on in normal use. Is a thirty second test a fair appraisal? There is only one way to know if a chair is comfortable after one or two hours, and that is to sit on it for that period of time, otherwise, be careful of thick upholstery that is often designed to trick you.